January 20th, 2018
Picacho Peak (1,920')
3.8 miles, 1,300'
Picacho Peak (sometimes referred to as Little Picacho on the Sierra Club Desert Peaks Section list) is a spectacular volcanic plug located north of Yuma.
From a distance it looks impossible but approached from the west there's a notch leading to a series of ledges which involve 3rd class scrambling, an awkward stepacross, two slightly sketchy ladders, and a summit ridge that requires a 4th class bit, 2 rappels, and finally a slightly challenging ascent if the rope. (The last part is why the peak is listed as the hardest technical peak on the DPS list)
It's always struck me as a perfect fit for people who have completed the Sierra Club Advanced Mountaineering Program and are looking for a way to practice the skills they learned. I'd been toying with leading it officially as an AMP Experience Trip of sorts for a while now and this was the result.
This was my 3rd time up Picacho. I initially did it back in 2011 from the east with just two people and then again in 2012 from the north as a part of my Sierra Club E provisional in a slightly hectic day where we also summited the mighty Stud Mountain.
This time we had 15 folks counting my co leader Jack Kieffer and myself. That number also included several AMP staffers to help move everyone through the choke points more quickly.
Despite the fact it was pouring rain when we left Orange County Friday night the forecast called for wind but 0% chance of rain. Yet somehow my personal luck seems to *occasionally* override forecasts like that...
- Posted By: Matthew Hengst
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